The Chairman's voice boomed through the walls of my shack: “Wake up! Wake up! P.E. is burning!” I rustled myself from sleep and rushed to the lone paved road skirting the northern edge of Riemvasmaak. The people had begun rioting to protest a lack of service delivery.
Barriers were erected at each main intersection in the area, blocking access to the communities, diverting traffic, and disrupting business. Every available obstruction was used, but flaming tires were the favorite--and most effective--instrument.
The riot was a multi-generational affair. Adults, teenagers, and children each played their part. Baby Snesh and her stuffed frog helped by adding pieces of newspaper to the fire.
Police were quickly on the scene. They began by attempting to extinguish the flaming tires by charging through them with a Casspir, the same armored vehicle employed in the apartheid era. Next, they turned on the protesters, attempting to disperse them with volleys of rubber bullets and blasts of tear gas from a cannon. People took cover wherever they could find it.
The police used rubber bullets and chemicals; people in Riemvasmaak used stones. Shielding themselves from the line of fire, protesters launch a barrage of rocks at police vehicles as they pass.
Tires blazing behind him, a youth in his school uniform hurls a rock at the police.
After multiple passes and a morning spent inside their vehicles, police change tactics. Armed officers charge the mob.
The drill was repeated daily. The mornings were tense: police vehicles patrolling while protesters continued to riot. As soon as the authorities succeeded in ripping apart a road block, protesters emerged from their hiding places with more stones and more tires.
The spirit of the apartheid freedom fighters lives on in South African townships. As rubber bullets ricocheted off of metal and wood, a community leader emerged from the dusty shadows with her hands raised high, in defiance, not surrender. She admonished the police for turning to violence and challenged protesters to discard stones and openly defend their right to non-violent protest.
The road blocks achieved their goal of disrupting traffic. Some vehicles refused to concede right of way. Enterprising mini-buses left tar and soot tracks along their improvised paths. Often, cars were chased and attacked by community members for attempting to pass.
Eventually, police set aside their initial tactics and began to dialogue with community members. Hands and faces smeared with soot and ash, protesters argued their case to the police.
The riot provided brilliant material for local newspapers. As the days went by and the riot continued, journalists and community leaders began to call each other by name.
Most parents made sure their children attended school in the morning, though they could see the flames from classroom windows. By afternoon, however, school had adjourned and teenagers joined the fight.
Each day of the protest followed a predictable rhythm of ebb and flow. By afternoon, the tense altercations had generally passed. For a diversion during the long days, teenagers turn to old protest traditions like tying wire to flaming tires and spinning them around like giant fire poi.
The riot persisted for one week. At times, the flames would calm, diminishing to an ember and a flicker, but they were never allowed to die.
Occasionally, the atmosphere resembled a backyard barbeque. Impromptu soccer games were contested in the street between barricades. World Cup officials could not have imagined the lasting influence of 2010.
Tires were preferred for burning for several reasons. There are practical advantages: a tire will burn for nearly an hour and is quickly relit after dousing (unlike wood). The color of the smoke is satisfyingly black. Perhaps most importantly, it is evocative of a long line of protest tradition.
Fires burned at several strategic intersections. There was one location in particular that proved significant, due to the positioning of a bridge over an impassable ditch. By loading the surface with debris and fire, they managed to completely stop traffic. It was here that the police became nastiest: harsh swearing, guns pointed inches from faces, vehicles hunting down people on sidewalks.
Material is at a premium in informal settlements, due to its many uses in ad hoc construction. Protesters scrounged up a variety of useful materials to use for barricades.
The police try various strategies to end the riot; none are very successful. By the end of the week, as long as the people are not violent, the police do not intervene. One inspector began to carry a video camera to document the police response. Nevertheless, they stood armed and ready to fire when needed.
Oppressed groups of South Africans have a distinguished history of protest. One tradition that has developed is 'toyi toyi,' a former war dance which was used to intimidate apartheid troops. It includes stomping feet and spontaneous chanting of political slogans and songs. It is a sign of strength in the face of impossible circumstances. The tradition continues in Riemvasmaak.
Only the wire coils and embers were left when the inferno had diminished. Circles of charred black pavement and ashes adorned intersections. Children often gathered to warm their hands over the smoldering stacks of debris.
Authorities express dismay that taxes would have to pay for patrol and cleanup of the riot. Community leaders counter that people with their backs against the wall have to do something—anything—to get attention to their plight.
By the last day, traffic was blocked and fires blazed at every informal settlement in the city. Riots have become an annual event: every year, authorities promise the people houses and electricity. Every year, they fail to deliver.
Riemvasmaak was fortunate to have a nearby tire lot with hundreds of scrap tires. The owner was happy to donate them to the community for the protests, saving himself the task of discarding them.
The tire lot, day seven. No more tires, no more riot. More meetings with and promises by the authorities. No explicit change has been realized. Nevertheless, it is a cathartic event. People seem satisfied. The riot was a rare opportunity for this marginalized community to change the power dynamic. For a brief period, they had a voice.
This is thought-provoking and terribly beautiful.
I am so proud of who you’ve become. Your concern for others and your continual search for knowledge have come together to make you a very special person. Enjoy your quest.
That photo essay is fucking brilliant. Not many people are aware of it, but SA is (last I checked) the most unequal country in the world. Essentially two countries in one, where those with money buy their way out of dealing with the rest of the country. Those left behind have started resorting to these kinds of protests in a way that should, frankly, terrify the haves – but for a range of reasons, the media in the country doesn’t cover these protests much at all. So everyone carries on in the manicured suburbs like it’s hunky dory.
I actually can’t tell you how long I have been waiting to see journalists here look to covering these issues. This photo essay really hits my happy spot today
Wonderful work, thanks so much for sharing.
Amazing pictures!!You obviously gained the trust of the protesters!Great work.
How inspiring your pictures and story is. Gave me goose bumps on how you captured the plight of the people. I am extremely impressed.
As Richard said, a pathetically under reported topic. Brilliant story
Beautiful pictures!!
Great Photo Essay, however a few corrections, looking at the pictures/photos compare to the essay – a few apsetcs need to be corrected which is not a very true reflection and factual to the point.
Its mention of a Casspir Vehicle that is used to remove burning debris, nowhere in the photos I notice a Casspir, however I did notice a Nyala RG12 Police Riot Vehicle, further the Water Canin truck is a mordern Police Riot Control Truck specific for Riot Control.
When visiting South Africa last fall, my first trip to southern Africa, I felt ashamed of my ignorance of the vastness of the divisions. I had been interested only in the wildlife and landscape when planning my trip. I sure learned a lot, largely from B&B proprietors, some of whom seemed content enough with the ways things were and some who were doing amazing things to try to change the poverty around them. It was a shock to be told in every city, don’t go out at night, that a B&B can’t get insurance unless they are surrounded with several layers of barbed and/or electric wire around their perimeter. A man in Pretoria said how amazing it was during the World Cup because the police presence was so intense that people could go walk the streets at night “like we were a First World country.” Learned how the gov’t tries to solve its Third World problems (that is, when it tries) with completely inappropriate First World solutions. Anyway, your photo essay is great. I can really appreciate the truth and devastation of it. Hopefully it will inspire people who may find it surprising to do more research into the topic and gain more understanding of the situation.
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While I do appreciate the great photography, some of the comments just make me shake my head at the ignorance and blatant nievety of the masses out there. If you’re wondering where I get off pointing that out… I’m a South African- born and raised and having lived there, I’m slight more aware of how things really are than the so called “critics” 10,000 miles away who, while very quick to blame scenes like this on disparity and wealth divides within SA, haven’t taken the time to think about all the other factors involved.
There is no doubt racial, social, ethnic and other divides still exist but basically it comes down to one thing: Sheer barbarism. There is a long history in SA of tribal, mob mentality. Instead of airing grievances in civil discussion, the mindset and stupidity of some groups is evident by lawless riots to get their point across. It both saddens and annoys me to see these animals take to the streets in violent, childish acts of terror. The lack of foresight, refusal to be law abiding, civil and lack of respect for life, community, law and patriotism, has me embarrassed to call myself a South African and continues the foreign public and media’s impression of the 3rd world, impoverished, crime ridden place it remains.
I don’t care what race, ethnic background, financial situation, social standing etc you belong to, actions depicted in this great set of photos, disgusts me. The actions of the few, keep visitors and tourists away, further deepen the corruption on every level of SA government, and continually perpetuate the “discovery channel” version of South Africa to the rest of the world.
Before people from all over the world blame Apartheid, and site reasons listed in ignorant comments above, take a moment to try understand the mentality of the thugs and criminals, pictured above, ruining our once great nation with their propensity to crime and violence.
Hi Kevin
I’ve just read this and your other article on living in a township. Well done for focusing on other people’s stories and for bringing out the fascinating details of your environment. There’s clearly no need to exaggerate or contrive here, the truth is dramatic enough.
My only slight quibble is that I think you could have given a bit more context: what caused the riot, whether this is linked to wider issues, etc. This might have avoided the online trolling of the above poster from South Africa. There are loads of interesting shack/township groups/organisations over there – have you had any contact with Abahali base Mjondolo (sp!)?
I can add some context to the riot. In the first photograph the caption says it was due to lack of service delivery. We have this problem throughout the country. When those who have very little become desperate enough, they take to the streets in organised mobs. It usually consists of blocking off roads with rocks, tyres and trees, and the throwing of stones. Tyres burn easily, make for good visuals and are readily available. As are the stones. The lack of service delivery protests has a variety of reasons. Some have been due to a lack of electricity supply. Many people, in informal settlements or squatter camps, believe that the ruling liberation movement, who they have elected into government, should supply free electricity to these areas. Other complaints have been apathy by police to enforce the law after serious crimes have been committed. The alternative here is mob justice where the community takes the law into their own hands which can have horrific results. Corrupt officials, who the community cannot get rid of, can sometimes only be fired after people bring attention to these problems by making a noise. On 7 March 2012 we will be having a nation-wide strike against the e-tolling which our leaders want to charge 40 cents a km to drive around Johannesburg on the highway. There is no alternative route in most instances and this toll fee will hit us all in the pocket. This strike will be supported by all peoples in all income groups in our society as it affects us all. In most areas this will not be a riotous mob as the authorities will keep a close eye on events. It could make for some interesting photographs though….