A Secret Room Full of Immigrants

Greece is the gateway to Europe and recently, I got an up close look at what it takes to get inside. For many immigrants, Greece is the first stop on their journey to what they hope will be a better life.

I've gotten a unique perspective on immigration in Greece not just because I'm a foreigner here, but also due to a strange coincidence. I studied abroad in Senegal and learned Wolof, the native language, while I was there. And it turns out that there are a large number of Senegalese immigrants making a living by selling handbags, purses and leather belts on the streets of Athens.

Within my first month here, I'd already become a celebrity in the Senegalese community. It's not everyday that a white guy comes up to a street merchant and starts talking to him in Wolof. "Nanga def?" I'd ask. "How are you?"and their jaws would drop in amazement. Soon we'd be laughing and slapping each other high five as I told them about my love for Senegalese food, music and culture.

So when the Maggal Touba (one of the holiest days of the year for Senegalese Muslims) rolled around last Wednesday, my friend Modou invited me to join in the festivities. I met him at the Omonia metro stop and he took me to a nondescript storefront. If I'd walked by it on the street I never would have guessed that anything special was taking place. But inside was just about every Senegalese guy in Athens. There were hundreds of people all dressed up in traditional African clothes chatting and waiting for the ceremony to start. I couldn't believe my eyes. It was like I'd been transported back to Dakar!

When the ceremony began, I sat upstairs while everyone prayed. Then, I came down and listened to the imam's sermon. One thing I love so much about the Senegalese is how important peace and brotherhood are to them. The brand of Sufi Islam that they believe in is completely the opposite of the stereotype of Islam you hear on the news. I can't tell you how many people there came up to me eager to explain that their religion is about peace and love and that violence is strictly forbidden. 

The imam's sermon was in Wolof, so I had to concentrate really hard to understand everything. He spoke about how the true battle for Muslims is fighting against the negative desires and aggression within themselves and that any lashing out or violence against others represents a failure on the part of the believer. Later on, I got a chance to talk with a lot of the guys there about what they believe in. I'm always moved when I hear people speaking passionately about their beliefs. The universal thread of belief seemed to be "We're all humans. We must all treat each other with respect and dignity."