Trams don’t stop at crosswalks, even if you’re in one… The only exception: Jaywalking nuns

After just a few weeks, I've found that there are quite a few not-so-subtle nuances apparent in Czech culture, one being that tram drivers don't stop for law abiding pedestrians. If they do, it's a rarity. In some cases I’m sure this is partly what makes the public transportation here in Prague so quick and efficient. In others, it can make crossing the street quite challenging. One evening, on a return trip from the office, our tram came to a sudden halt between stops. Finding this quite curious, I had a look through the front windshield to discover two nuns crossing in the middle of the street! They waved the driver a quick “thanks” and picked up the pace to a reserved jog. I couldn’t help but let out a laugh. Perhaps this tram driver would now be absolved of his pedestrian-negligent sins with such an act of divine kindness...

But aside from employing the world’s most determined tram conductors, Prague seems to be full of very polite individuals; especially in elevators. Coming from a very large corporate environment in Los Angeles, I thought I had elevator etiquette down pat… Doors part, step inside, push your floor, move to the back, avoid eye contact, don’t bump, touch, sneeze or breathe, and look straight ahead. Doors open, make your way to the front, step out and walk off like you’ve really got somewhere important to be. Any friendly exchange of “Hello” or “Good morning” invited conversation; one you never had time to start. In Prague, unlike home, it’s standard to offer up a formal “Dobry den” stepping in and a “Na shledanou” stepping out, usually addressing the group rather than any one individual. Though the greetings become a bit routine, they continue all the same... Yet when the work day is done, we say “Ahoy” for the night and it’s time to “make a party."

Czechs take great pride in their pivo, beer that is, and any time’s a good time to have one. Best known in the Czech Republic is Pilsner Urquell, a light, golden beer found at nearly every pub and dining establishment. But you don’t have to wait till after work to grab a beer. You don’t always have to wait till the legal drinking age of 18. A few high school students I met recently shared that their pub of choice sits across the way from school, where they socialize with friends, schoolmates and (gasp!) professors. But regardless of where you are and what company you’re with, it’s customary to follow a few simple rules before taking the first sip… “Na zdravi!” is all you need to say as you clink the glass of your neighbor. But be sure to look him straight in the eye! Eyeing your beer during the cheers ritual is a no-no, as is crossing paths of another “cheersing” pair. Once everyone’s been properly “blessed,” it’s time to drink… and drink and drink if you’re doing it right.

When the late evening comes, after an air kiss to each cheek, home - on foot - is the destination, taking care not to sway onto tram tracks and risk getting pummeled by jaywalking nuns.   

Comments

Posted on 6/24/2009 by

Phil Mitchell

Hey Amy... Great story! I can hardly wait to get there and try some of the Czech beers. I just need to learn how to pronounce “Na zdravi!” .

Posted on 6/25/2009 by

Mary Smith

... Jay walking Nuns? ... sounds like another one of those e-mail jokes your Uncle Phil sends to everyone when he is suppose to be working!! :=)

Posted on 6/26/2009 by

Laurie Cloward-Cater

"Dobre den" was one of Scott's favorite things to say. He said it to everyone everywhere all the time. I actually think it was the only thing he knew how to say. Well... that and "pivo" of course. lol

Posted on 6/30/2009 by

Beth Mitchell

My kind of place....cheers...as we say in the states!!

Posted on 7/16/2009 by

Nishi Kumar

You are making me miss Praha more and more with every post! Keep it up! And try some Gambrinus...also a very good beer! (My Econ professor last semester introduced me to it)

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