Hamburgers, Sausages and Cologne Dom

Made it out of Prague and safely into Germany, despite the fact that our aircraft's main breaks malfunctioned right before landing; we circled for a good forty minutes before back-up landing gear thankfully kicked in. Left sunny Czech Republic, the first warm weather and clear skies we’d seen in weeks, only to arrive in Mülheim, welcomed by thunderstorms, torrential rain and charcoal grey storm clouds. This part of Germany appeared much different from what I’ve become used to seeing in Prague; very lush green foliage and agricultural fields for miles. Driving from the airport to my German family’s cottage home, we passed tall rows of corn (which were unfortunately lying horizontal after being slammed by earlier wind and rain) and dense rye, barley and canola fields, highlighted by the red sun which managed to glow through a stormy evening sky.

Dinner had been waiting for us. In honor of my country and in celebration of the Fourth of July, Jochen barbequed hamburgers and we all wiped our mouths with napkins resembling the stars and stripes. As I first reached with both hands, I looked over to find Jochen cutting his burger with a fork and knife. Shit. I’m so terrible at this. I picked up my utensils and made my best attempt to keep the burger, onions and pickles neatly placed between the two buns. Kim, American born, encouraged me just to forget it, pick up my food and enjoy it as if I were home. I tried, but oddly enough, In-N-Out etiquette made me feel extremely piggish and out of place. Burgers on a fork or in the hands, I decided, tastes just the same.

Luckily I awoke the next morning to a break in a stream of such simultaneously magnificent yet crappy weather. We spent the day in Köln, Cologne if you prefer the English pronunciation, walking the streets, resting by the Rein and people watching. Unaware of the fact that the city was celebrating its annual Christopher Street festival, we quickly found that there were a lot more people to watch than originally anticipated. Kim had mentioned that Köln was notoriously known as one of the most free-spirited, casual, artsy cities in Germany, which was confirmed in my mind once we spotted Cologne Pride signs, purple-haired drag queens and free condom booths lining the crowded walkways...

Outside the streets of this modern cultural celebration stood the Kölner Dom, a Gothic cathedral dating back to 870 which now offered historic relics, architecture and alters to marvel at. The underground treasury chamber shared secrets from the past. An archbishop’s liturgical vestments woven with strands of silver thread and a crosier of solid gold intricately carved in fine religious detail proved he was a powerful man. The shrine of the Three Magi, carried from Milan to its final resting place, continually restored and protected from thieves, proved Cologne was a sacred city. And the care for which these artifacts were preserved and displayed proved this was a place of pilgrimage; a place people came to worship, pay homage to religious ancestors and attempt to make real a belief based solely on faith. The cathedral is a wonder in itself. Carvings of gargoyles and saints which cover literally every inch of the exterior captivate, while candle light vigils at small chapel alters mesmerize. But it was this treasury that I found most interesting. Each piece of metal, rock and precious stone revealed the history of powerful wealthy rulers and a thriving medieval town full of hardworking craftsman and women dedicating their lives to the creation of Kölner Dom.

As we emerged into the sunlight, out of the dimly lit cathedral, I wondered whether these artists, rulers and architects ever fathomed that their work would be admired centuries far into the future. I wondered what people years and years from now would respect and revere from my time here on earth. With those thoughts subsiding, we walked back to the center of the city, to celebrations of freedom of expression, life and love. Hungry, Jochen, Kim and I stopped at a stand in the busy street, to eat a German sausage, in a bun, with our hands.             

Comments

Posted on 7/12/2009 by

Mary Smith

... :-)

Posted on 7/12/2009 by

Laurie Cloward-Cater

You have summed it up in your last paragraph. That is always going through my mind and I would love to be a fly on the wall 50 years from now to see what the future thinks about us... Great story!

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