Glimpse - Your Stories from Abroad

1. Home
2. Countries
3. Topics
4. People
5. The Correspondents Program

Books

A few books to read before going

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_books.png

/tips/topic/books/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

I spent my time in northern Uganda where the history, political dynamics and daily realities differ significantly from other parts of the country. If you’re headed to the north I’d recommend the following: Living with Bad Surroundings: War and Existential Uncertainty in Acholiland, Northern Uganda. By Sverker Finnstrom, 2003 The Wizard of the Nile: The Search for Africa’s Most Wanted. By Matthew Green, 2008

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_books.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Getting Around

Get your daily fix of cab accidents

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_transportation_.png

/tips/topic/getting-around/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

The most notable means of local transportation in Uganda are motorcycle taxis known as boda-bodas. These taxis earned their name from the days when riders ferried travelers throughout the no man’s land between the Ugandan and Kenyan borders. They would take folks from border to border, which ultimately shortened to boda-boda. The vehicles are fairly accident prone and take some getting used to but soon become a required daily fix. I've had an array of accidents ranging from basic falls to hitting small children at a decent clip.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_transportation_.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Festivals & Events

You can't exonerate without breaking some eggs

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_events.png

/tips/topic/festivals-events/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

In September 2008, I photographed a traditional Acholi reconciliation ceremony for six senior commanders of the Lord’s Resistance Army. The ceremony focused on Opio Makasi, the Senior Operations Commander and close confidant of LRA leader Joseph Kony. The ceremony requires that the men walk barefoot over an egg, an act which symbolizes exoneration for past wrongdoing. The ceremony is part of Mato Oput, an age-old, traditional process that aims to repair communal relationships after serious transgression.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_events.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Must Do

Be clear, say "no."

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_mustdo.png

/tips/topic/must-do/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

I found the concept of saying no to be particularly tricky. In the US, we often dodge the unadulterated “no” with excuses and uncertainty. “Let me see if I’m free that day” usually suggests that hanging out is unlikely and buys us a bit of time to make another appointment. Frequently in Uganda, however, disinterest in meeting someone must be stated with certainty. Hinting usually ends with someone coming to your residence with a full agenda of destinations. Saying no at that point is utterly out of the question.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_mustdo.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Etiquette

Try to learn the language

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_etiquette.png

/tips/topic/etiquette/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

To the fullest extent possible, learn the language. I was deeply alarmed by how few foreigners made any attempt to learn Luo, the local language. I’m not saying that one should master a language spoken only in northern Uganda and parts of South Sudan; the basics will suffice. Learning some of the language is a sign of respect that will open doors and build trust.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_etiquette.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Food

Just eat it

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_food.png

/tips/topic/food/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

I must say that much of East African cuisine does not do it for me. With the exception of Zanzibar, where spices are rich and seafood is varied and bountiful, much of the East African diet is extremely bland. Most things tasty are fried and heavily salted. Meat is often boiled and tough, as is chicken, which typically dons a rubbery skin. Ugandans take great pride in their food, however, making it difficult to decline additional servings.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_food.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Film

To watch before you go

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_film.png

/tips/topic/film/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

I highly recommend War Dance, an Academy Award nominated documentary about northern Uganda. Beyond being an incisive and touching treatise on the issues, the film’s photography is absolutely breathtaking.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_film.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Packing

Bring hand sanitizer, leave the hat behind

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_packing.png

/tips/topic/packing/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

I could have used more hand sanitizer. I brought a winter hat, which was a total waste.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_packing.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Religion

Awkward agnosticism

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_religion.png

/tips/topic/religion/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

Most people in northern Uganda are Christians. If you’re agnostic like me and not comfortable discussing it, you may want to pick a denomination to fib about. I was open about my views and created some mildly awkward situations as a result.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_religion.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Politics

If they don't want to talk, there's a reason

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_politics.png

/tips/topic/politics/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

Given northern Uganda’s violent political history, I was surprised to find virtually no serious political discussion. Political inquiries are often met with blank stares and ambiguous statements that trail off before illustrating anything. I often asked basic questions, such as why Kony and the LRA are fighting. The question usually got the same response, “Even us, we don’t know.” Having worked in conflicted areas of the Middle East, where everyone has an opinion, I was skeptical of this unwillingness to share. After some time, however, certain individuals did open up to me. If done in populated areas, their hushed words were often preceded by a look over both shoulders. This dynamic, which occurs regularly, illustrates the unfinished nature of political turbulence in northern Uganda. The era of Kony and the LRA may be at an end but the legitimate grievances of the Acholi people persist, at great concern to the central government. The region also remains trapped amid larger geopolitical considerations regarding oil, the future of South, or “New” Sudan, alleged weapons testing and other issues not openly discussed. I believe that the Ugandan military and intelligence community maintain a fairly expansive spying network throughout population centers in the north. If people don’t want to talk politics, respect that.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_politics.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Music

Hip-hop on the rise

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_music.png

/tips/topic/music/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

Uganda has a growing hip-hop scene. I spent some time shooting in a music recording studio in Gulu called Bushfire Records. My favorite artist on that scene is Smokey Allan, an Acholi emcee who’s getting a fair amount of radio play in Kampala. Check out the video for his nationwide single “Muyaye”: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHZM3OAX7RE

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_music.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Sports

England's still the team to root for

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_sports.png

/tips/topic/sports/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

I found it surprising that Ugandans seem obsessed only with teams from England, their former colonizer.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_sports.png

Comments [ 0 ]

TV

You are watching Big Brother

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_tv.png

/tips/topic/tv/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

It seems like people love Big Brother.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_tv.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Fashion

Don your finest Eminem t-shirt

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_fashion.png

/tips/topic/fashion/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

Eminem seems to be one of the most popular guys in northern Uganda. If you’ve got a t-shirt with his face on it, you’ll fit right in. Also, if you’re into vintage t-shirts, Ugandan markets will make your year.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_fashion.png

Comments [ 1 ]

Dating

Be wary of your sudden powers of seduction

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_dating.png

/tips/topic/dating/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

I am in a committed relationship so dating was not part of my experience in Uganda. On the basis of previous experience, however, I would urge singles to be conscious of what I call the “passport prospect.” Foreigners traveling in deeply impoverished countries often enjoy a degree of sexual interest they may not receive at home. This is intoxicating and can be difficult to resist but should be evaluated within the broader context. Sex is extremely powerful and can be a means to an end for some looking to escape a life of poverty. Men and women alike can find themselves in situations where careful calculations are disguised as romantic or sexual interest. That said, everyone’s curious about things (and people) they haven’t “done” before. Sometimes in sub-Saharan Africa, where there is virtually no racial variance, sexual interest is rooted in curiosity. This topic was endless during my time at the New Town Way Inn in Gulu. “So how can we get one of the NGO white girls?” the guys would ask. “Are they different?” While women in Uganda are certainly less publicly vocal about their sexual curiosity, I am certain of a similar dialogue, even if it’s internal.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_dating.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Health

Better to be safe than sorry

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_health.png

/tips/topic/health/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

Be wise. If you’re spending a lot of time in Internally Displaced Persons camps in northern Uganda, be vigilant. Odds are you’ll be fine but remember that there are regular occurrences of Hepatitis E and other nasty viruses that are fairly easy to pick up if you’re not careful. If you've been shaking hands in a camp all day, don't be a hero. Wait until you can properly clean your hands before eating with them. The healthcare system in the north is not great and to be avoided if possible. If you’re in dire straights, however, Gulu Independent Hospital is the spot to go. I got a parasite check there before leaving and was very impressed with the staff and facilities.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_health.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Slang

Keep it clean

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_slang.png

/tips/topic/slang/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

Through the advice of an Acholi friend, I learned only words and phrases that were appropriate to use across all age ranges. I think its useful advice.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_slang.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Nightlife

Dancing...with a side of danger

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_nightlife.png

/tips/topic/nightlife/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

Despite its history of extreme danger after dark, Gulu boasts a remarkable nightlife scene. During weekend nights, one can hear music blasting from nightclubs until dawn. There are several bars and nightclubs in the downtown area all of which are crowded on Friday and Saturday. If you want a calm, safe night of dancing and drinking check out Havana or Diana Gardens. If you want to push the envelope, check out the Buganda Pub, where you should stay on your toes, not leave your drink unattended and don’t take drags of other people’s cigarettes. Buganda is the roughest spot in town but bumping every single night.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_nightlife.png

Comments [ 0 ]

Being an American

Obama's helping the American image

Pete Muller

10 Feb 2009

Uganda

http://media.glimpse.org/images/flags/gifs/ug.gif

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_title_american.png

/tips/topic/being-an-american/

/tips/country/UG/

/accounts/11064/profile/

Obama’s election was a great first step towards restoring a more favorable opinion of the United States abroad. I was in Gulu, Uganda for the election, which was both highly anticipated and celebrated by many across East Africa. Ugandan press ran full front page photos of Obama as the victor weeks before Americans went to the polls. Obama’s known Kenyan heritage did not stop Acholi people in northern Uganda from claiming the leader as a direct descendent of their Luo tribe. His victory made the phrase, “I am American,” something that no longer need be disguised as a cough. Still, I believe that humility is the best advice for travelers. Be respectful, inquisitive, and use your ears twice as much your mouth. No matter your mission, you’re there to learn and share, never to teach.

http://media.glimpse.org/images/tip_american.png

Comments [ 0 ]