Books

"The Last Days of the Incas" -- relive the Inca empire's demise

Courtney Ng

09 Nov 2009

Peru

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Lovers of flowery nonfiction need to get a copy of Kim MacQuarrie's "The Last Days of the Incas." MacQuarrie tells the story of the Inca empire's demise with incredible cinematic detail, planting readers so firmly in the story that they forget all of the book's events happened 500 years ago. Reading this book while working on Inca ruins in the Andean cloudforest was one of the most riveting reading experiences I have ever had. You'll be genuinely disappointed when the story ends -- but then again, visiting any of the sites in which the story is staged will only make you want to pick it up and read it all over again.

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Getting Around

How to stay safe on the streets of Lima

Courtney Ng

04 Dec 2009

Peru

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You'll hear it a dozen times before you get to Lima -- "but it's dangerous!" Yes and no. Lima is a big city, and like in all big cities, crime is common. But the good news is that most crime is petty theft, which means that keeping yourself safe is mostly a matter of keeping a close eye on your belongings. A few easy tricks: keep your personal belongings on your lap in combis and under your feet in taxis (robbers are known to break windows and reach in to grab your belongings). Always sit behind the driver when riding in a taxi so as to keep yourself safe from the driver, and never get in a taxi that just has a taxi sticker on the window. Look for a company logo, along with permit stickers, to ensure you're getting into a legit taxi.

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Festivals & Events

Celebrate Independence Day the Wong way

Courtney Ng

16 Oct 2009

Peru

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One of Peru's biggest supermarket chains, Wong, throws a huge Independence Day celebration on July 28 every year in Parque Kennedy, Miraflores. The festivities include a massive parade with Chinese dragons (never thought you'd see those in Peru, eh?), fireworks, and tons of performances. It's the Macy's Day Parade of Lima. Just watch your valuables -- big crowds mean lots of pickpockets.

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Culture Shock

Sick of harrassment? Eyes up!

Kathleen Fritz

07 Jan 2010

Peru

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If you're female and foreign-looking, it's hard to walk down the street in Peru without hearing whistles, catcalls, and sometimes vulgar comments. Next time you find yourself approaching that leering group of guys on the side of the street and wish you were somewhere else, try this: Own the street with your eyes. Gaze everywhere but directly at them, as if nothing in the world is stopping you from looking anywhere you please. Staring blankly ahead screams, "I'm afraid!" Instead, keep your gaze up and open; survey the world before you with confidence, but stop just short of noticing the potential offenders. It's worked for me more often than not on the streets of Lima.

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Must Do

Wayna Picchu

Michelle Saltis

30 Nov 2009

Peru

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If visiting Machu Picchu, it is truly a magnificent experience to hike the mountain behind it, Wayna Picchu. Catch one of the earliest buses, because they only let a certain number of people hike it every day. Once the top is reached, after a very treacherous trail, the view is simply one of the most gorgeous I have ever seen. It took me above the clouds, and I could see Machu Picchu below me along with the surrounding mountains.

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Etiquette

Get in the habit of greeting -- all the time

Courtney Ng

10 Nov 2009

Peru

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"Buenos días." "¡Hola!" "¿Cómo estás?" Get used to hearing and using these phrases multiple times every day, because Peruvians believe in greeting each and every person they encounter -- from the bus driver to the neighbor they've never really met. At first it can feel as though you're wearing these phrases out, but not saying them is taken as a sign that you are angry, sick, or just impolite. Another not-so-common but just-as-useful phrase: when you are eating and you hear someone say "¡Provecho!," the polite response is "¡Servido!" This is the Peruvian way of saying "Bon appetit," or "I hope your meal is great!"

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Food

Don't expect to find mac and cheese

Michelle Saltis

30 Nov 2009

Peru

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I was traveling in Peru and was very sick from the food and water. We passed by a KFC in Lima, and I just had to go in. I normally don't eat fast food, but some good old processed mac and cheese (which you can find at most KFCs in the U.S.) was exactly what I was craving. But it wasn't on the menu. Since that time, I have checked KFC menus in many other countries, and I have not found it anywhere. My foreign friends don't seem to think it exists in any other part of the world.

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Packing

Pack chewing gum to double your refreshment

Courtney Ng

16 Oct 2009

Peru

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If there's one small thing from home I miss a lot -- it's the abundance of chewing gum. In Peru, there are two to three popular brands of chewing gum (including those familiar childhood chiclets), but none of them has flavor that lasts more than 5 minutes. I am always excited to find a new brand of chewing gum here, and usually quickly find out that it's not very good. So, if you are a chewing gum fanatic like myself, pack a few packs of your favorite kind. You won't regret it!

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Religion

Explore the diverse faiths of the Andes

Courtney Ng

05 Dec 2009

Peru

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Catholicism is the dominant religion in Peru, but it can't compete with the diversity of the religious traditions and practices of native peoples in the Andes and rainforest. There are hundreds of different cultures present, each with their own unique spiritual beliefs. If you want to take a neat cultural journey not too far from Lima, check out the week-long Fiesta de Agua in San Pedro de Castas, a small town three hours away by bus from the capital. It takes place each year in October, and consists of celebrations and ceremonies that the Quechua-speaking people of the town carry out as they clean their water canals and honor their gods. If anything, the mountain views alone will be a religious experience.

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Politics

Understand the complex history of the armed conflict

Courtney Ng

12 Nov 2009

Peru

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Not long before the tourist boom that started bringing hoards of foreigners to Machu Picchu, Peru went through a serious and traumatic internal conflict. The terrorist group the Shining Path murdered close to 70,000 Peruvians, the vast majority of them poor farmers. Today, it's hard to believe that this occurred only in the past quarter-century, because Peruvians don't talk about it much and asking can feel intrusive. Still, it's important to understand the social and political factors that led to the violence, and realize that many of these problems are still plaguing Peru today. To learn more, I highly recommend watching the documentary "The State of Fear," which offers a comprehensive, sobering look into the tragic history.

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Music

Learn to embrace the songs that get on everybody's nerves, everybody's nerves

Courtney Ng

29 Oct 2009

Peru

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I've become convinced that all radio stations in Peru have a set list of five pop songs they replay over and over again throughout several months. At times it can feel like your head might explode with how repetitious the radio gets, but remember that there are lots of other unique styles of music in Peru: criolla, or Afro-Peruvian influenced; la chica; and of course, huayna, which might make your ears bleed if you listen for too long. The point is that there is diversity in Peruvian music -- you just sometimes have to hunt it down.

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Sports

It's all about Alianza Lima

Courtney Ng

04 Dec 2009

Peru

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I don't particularly like soccer, but it's impossible to escape "fútbol" (Spanish for "soccer") here. One of the biggest soccer teams is Alianza Lima, a team of Afro-Peruvian players. It's particularly uplifting to see them play, because it's one of the rare occasions where Afro-Peruvians are honored in the public arena. You can check out the Classic, the biggest game of the season, in March.

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Fashion

Wear your knock-off clothes with pride

Courtney Ng

05 Dec 2009

Peru

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When I first arrived in Lima and saw young people rocking every type of name-brand clothing from Ralph Lauren to Glo by J.Lo, I couldn't help but wonder where they got the money to pay for such expensive clothing! Soon I realized though, that it is ALL knock-off clothing. Peruvians don't seem to be brand-focused much, however, they just wear what looks good. The place to find all the knock-off stuff? Gamarra or Polvos Azules, two markets built around pirated products. Be sure to go with a Peruvian and keep a close eye on your belongings, though, because both are located in somewhat dangerous neighborhoods.

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Dating

Sorry, but your friendship is outside my budget

Courtney Ng

05 Oct 2009

Peru

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Be wary of "bricheros." A "brichero" is a Peruvian slang word for a person (usually men, but sometimes women too) who want to spend time with a foreigner to get something out of him or her (money, free drinks, connections). I once received a Facebook message from a guy at my university who seemed really interested in helping me adjust to classes and living in Lima. Then I checked his Facebook friends and noticed they were almost all American females. Can anyone say "Remove from friends?"

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Health

Purchase altitude medication to conquer the heights

Courtney Ng

19 Dec 2009

Peru

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Seeing the Andes was one of the reasons I chose to travel to Peru, but being at high altitudes also presents a lot of problems for those who, like myself and most Americans, who aren't accustomed to living in places where the oxygen in the air is thin. Heading to high-altitude places, such as Cusco, without taking altitude meds and/or taking a day or two to rest and adjust to the altitude, can lead to severe reactions such as vomiting, fatigue, and diarrhea. Therefore, it's important to talk to a doctor about getting altitude medication beforehand. Look at the bright side, though -- when you have trouble walking uphill, you can always blame it on the altitude!

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Slang

Beer is not cerveza, work is not trabajo

Melissa Thetford

18 Mar 2009

Peru

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"Chela" is apparently the appropriate word to use when ordering beer in Peru, if you want to avoid being immediately labeled as a tourist (I come from a rare bloodline that allows me to blend into about 25 different southern hemisphere countries without standing out), and you never go to work, you go to your "chamba." Cool and confident is not "fresco y confidente," it's all "chevre." All those wasted vocabulary words, replaced by their shorter "ch" cousins!

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Nightlife

Take advantage of Lima's diverse hotspots

Courtney Ng

05 Dec 2009

Peru

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The beauty of being in a cosmopolitan city like Lima is that there's something for everyone -- and that is true of the nightlife scene as well. For great bars, check out Calle Berlin off of Parque Kennedy in Miraflores. For 80s rock music and salsa spots, Barranco is the place to be. Sargento Pimienta is one of the more popular spots, but make sure you show up before midnight because the line to get in gets insanely long. Help! plays alternative and rock music on Thursday nights, and turns into Mr. Feesh on Saturdays, breaking out the reggaeton. If you're willing to throw down some big bucks, Aura and Gotica in Larco Mar are great spots to find a good mix of salsa, rock, and 80s all in one.

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Being an American

Learn the choice phrases that keep prices down

Courtney Ng

09 Nov 2009

Peru

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One of the most frustrating aspects of being an American in Peru is that people look at you and see a big, fat dollar sign. Salesmen will up all their prices just to milk you for every sol in your pocket. The best way to combat this is to go shopping with a Peruvian friend whenever possible -- that's the easiest way to make sure you aren't being ripped off. If that's not possible, use your Spanish. Phrases like "no seas mala" or "no seas pendejo" will let whoever you're talking to know that you are aware they are taking advantage of you, which usually leads to a drop in the asking price.

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