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Must Do

Rakia: Drink of choice

danielle hayes

06 Nov 2009

Croatia

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"It's a stomach opener," my Croatian friend said as a means of encouragement when an old man at a hiker's lodge offered me my first shot of rakia."Do I want my stomach opened?" I wondered. After a few months in the Balkans I can safely say yes. Rakia is a regional specialty, an often homemade fruit brandy served before meals. Though it comes in a shot glass, drinking rakia like a local means sipping at the strong liquor and keeping your face from contorting at the taste. Don't forget to toast--Zivjeli!--to life. [ A WORD of WARNING: Should you find yourself drinking rakia on a mountaintop and needing to continue your hike, consider the fact that after a few rounds "the stomach opener" becomes a "depth perception destroyer." ]

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Food

Dolac has it all: figs, flowers, honey, and octopuses

danielle hayes

04 Oct 2009

Croatia

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Located directly behind Zagreb's main square (Trg Bana Jelacica), this market is great for foodies and the budget weary alike. The first floor entrance looks like a modest storefront, but don't be fooled--inside, dozens of vendors are selling fresh bread, meat, cheese, homemade pasta, pastries and more. Upstairs in the open air market you can buy produce, crucifixes and traditional Croatian clothing. There is also a separate fish market--sniff around, you'll find it. After shopping, head back to the trg for a snack and some quality people-watching, or walk a few blocks east to a quiet park behind the monastery where you'll find plenty of public displays of affection. Be sure to go early in the day, as most things close by mid-afternoon and you'll need the full day to digest.

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Music

The ocean is an organist

danielle hayes

06 Nov 2009

Croatia

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The sea song is particularly melodic in the old city center of Zadar. This is due to the sea organ, a seamlessly integrated art installation that makes itself known only when the tide comes in and holes in the stone steps can be heard emitting low drones, an ephemeral song that will never be quite the same. So as the sun sets, sit back and appreciate the organ, an instrument introduced in brothels, co-opted by the church, and now carved into stone between the sea and the sky. (Photo by Michal Kolodziejski (cc))

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Nightlife

Climb into bed with a stranger

danielle hayes

06 Nov 2009

Croatia

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One afternoon in Zadar, while wandering by my lonesome, I met a fellow traveler. We struck up a conversation, watched the sunset over the water and half an hour later I was lying in bed with him. This was not a case of fast track romance. We were at a beautiful bar called "The Garden" with a boardwalk full of beds overlooking the sea. It was the perfect way to end an afternoon of wandering, to rest weary feet, to have a drink, and to enjoy the fresh air a little while longer.

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