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Copyright © 2009 National Geographic Society, Washington, D.C.

Your Stories From Abroad

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SLIDESHOW: On The Street In Buenos Aires

Estación 9 de Julio/Carlos Pellegrini/Diagonal Norte—where three subway lines meet—is perhaps the busiest and loudest ... read more

Julie Turkewitz
 

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They Say Everything Is Degenerating In Santa Ana, But I'm Not So Sure

As my companion slowed to a stop before a smiling, generously armed police officer, I was reminded that the crumbled road was indeed part of route 9, Argentina's main ... read more

 

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'Che' does not mean communist

In Argentina, people often say "che" to one another. The first time someone did this to me, it threw me for a loop. Were they making fun of me? Implying ... read more

by Anders Kelto

10 Feb 2009
Slang

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They aren't calling you fat!

Having learned Spanish in California and spoken it in Mexico, Spain, and Puerto Rico, I thought with a little review I'd be ready to take on the Porteños -- city ... read more

by Gianna Toboni

20 Mar 2009
Getting Around

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Hoard your coins

Porteños – those are locals of Buenos Aires – value the one peso coin more than the two peso note. Why? Local buses only accept coins, and everyone takes the bus. Be ... read more

by Julie Turkewitz

25 Apr 2009

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Blog Posts

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As far north as Jujuy

  Our drive to Jujuy began before the stray dogs were even up. We got our wake up call at 5:30 AM and were on the road within the hour. I’ve learned to take the tour guide’s advice. When he says, “Buy some coca leaves”, do. You probably will need ... read more

Audrey Bergner

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Leticia Henry

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Double-Barrelled Packing

I'm sitting in my room now and it's nearly empty. There are still the paintings on the wall that my roommate made, but my maps of Buenos Aires and Argentina are down. Most of my clothes are either packed up or at the laundromat. A suitcase lies opened and nearly ... read more

Jon Brandt

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A Note on the Style of Night Life in Buenos Aires

People think of Argentinians as very fashionable, and justly so. Walking through the Microcentro during the say, one finds high powered businessmen and women bustling about, wearing the latest fashions. There is a certain air carried by so many here, with the large sunglasses covering the face up and the ... read more

Jon Brandt

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Stuck in the Middle

Last night I went out with my friends Dan and Valerie, meeting up with a couple of Dan's students and their friends. Though the final destination was to be a house party in a residential neighborhood far away (I eventually hitch-hiked home at 5:30 am), we first went to the ... read more

Jon Brandt

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Get Your Own Culture!

How does one truly describe what culture is? You can go across the sea, visit museums, drink different wines and eat different foods, all in an attempt to get some culture. Listen to classical music, watch a foreign film, or see a play. Whatever it is that makes you think ... read more

Jon Brandt

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Life is to enjoy (La Vida es para gozarla)

Wow, it feels good to be solo on the beach. The breeze flows steadily from the southeast; it's beautiful, with the sun's streaking rays cutting through the thin frosting of clouds downward towards the sandy coast. This is no beach resort, this ain't no disco, no Caribbean coast, or tropical ... read more

Brian Funk

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What You Leave Behind

What do you gain when you spend so much time away from home, living abroad in some wild expat dream or traveling? Often enough, you wind up losing more than you think you're gaining. Ask yourself, do the long term potential benefits of leaving home really outweigh the short term ... read more

Jon Brandt

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A Picture For Your Thoughts

The other night I went home and found that an American couple were in my apartment purchasing a painting from my roommate, who’s an artist. It turns out they live on Nantucket, and we wound up talking for a long time. At some point the conversation turned to photography, and ... read more

Jon Brandt

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Mountains, Football, Dreams

You take away the mountains and the rough country roads, you take away the ancient buses with black plumes of smoke billowing behind, and you take away the expectation that every day will bring something totally new and unexpected. I wake up and it's all according to a plan now. ... read more

Jon Brandt

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Forget Paris

I've been doing a lot of thinking lately about my place here in Argentina, and since meeting two new friends who feel similarly, I've been discussing it as well. Earlier in the week I wrote about not feeling that I perfectly fit in here, or that something is amiss, but ... read more

Jon Brandt

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Can't Sleep, Might As Well Write

Tonight I can't sleep, but I'm so tired. My mind is riddled with thoughts about where I've been, where I am, and where I'll be. On the edge of sleep still, but my brain just won't let it go, so I've given up trying for now. Coffee will have to ... read more

Jon Brandt

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Dear Video Diary,

One of the best ways to chronicle your trip is to create a video diary. This past summer, before embarking on my South American adventure, I purchased a camcorder and it was one of my best investments ever! Not only was I able to capture some of the most magnificent scenery, but ... read more

Audrey Bergner

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An Expensive Mistake

Before leaving for Ecuador, I signed up on the U.S. State Department’s database as a citizen residing in Ecuador. This was mainly so they could keep track of me in the event of an emergency, and it’s something that everyone should do regardless of whether or not they live in ... read more

Jon Brandt

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Losing My Spanish

While I wholeheartedly agree that 40 million people can’t be wrong, I have to admit that the Spanish spoken in Argentina is a bit different, and definitely takes some getting used to. Last year I began to pick up the usage of ‘vos’ while living in Ecuador, though they never ... read more

Jon Brandt

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Left On Red? Nah, Just Kidding, There Are No Reds

Congratulations, Buenos Aires! You've done it again. Another significant title has been awarded to you. Previous honors include the "Paris of South America," "Most Metropolitan City in the Continent", and "Beef Capital of the World." Well, on behalf of, me, I'm giving this great city another crowning title. Are you ... read more

Jon Brandt

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Like A Fine Wine

Since I've started my job, I've been fortunate enough to be reading up entirely on Wine Country, the many wine vineyards in Argentina, and how to taste and appreciate wine, among other things. There's a whole world and culture when it comes to wine, and as 2 weeks of 9 ... read more

Jon Brandt

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Welcome to Americatown, Fatty!

On Monday night I attended my first meeting with a writing circle here in Buenos Aires. The group, which is composed mainly of expat women, used to meet at a café every week, but now bounces around from people’s apartments. It’s a good way for me to meet more people ... read more

Jon Brandt

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The Latinization of Jon

No matter how much time I spend in Latin America, I’ll always be an American and always revert back to the culture that I was raised in. For many obviously reasons, I’ll never be truly Latino, but after spending over a year in Latin America, I feel like I’m slowly ... read more

Jon Brandt

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Not Quite Elevator Music

Last night I was riding the Subte (subway) headed towards Belgrano. The subway would be a great way to get around in Buenos Aires, except for the fact that they didn't put much thought into it when they built it. Realistically, it serves only the centro, and the second you ... read more

Jon Brandt

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Books

Don't buy new books in Buenos Aires.

Julie Turkewitz

24 Jun 2009

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Buenos Aires is pure temptation for book lovers. Glossy new books practically spill out of stores on Santa Fe and Corrientes, and you can't get off a colectivo without seeing yet another bookstore. But literature nerds: Don't purchase those unread books. Save your pesos for something even better -- BA's healthy used book business. If you are into low prices and dusty pages, head to a great no-name place at the corner of Corrientes and Rodriguez Pena. Or, if you have some time, take the the A subway and get off at Acoyte. You'll find a great plaza with tons of used book stores and plenty of salesman happy to discuss their favorite works.

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Getting Around

Hoard your coins

Julie Turkewitz

25 Apr 2009

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Julie Turkewitz

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Porteños – those are locals of Buenos Aires – value the one peso coin more than the two peso note. Why? Local buses only accept coins, and everyone takes the bus. Be warned that almost everyone – from taxi drivers to kiosk owners – will refuse to fork over change.

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Festivals & Events

Getting the "in" on cultural activities in Buenos Aires

Julie Turkewitz

30 Jun 2009

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Julie Turkewitz

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Buenos Aires is so full of concerts, art exhibits, dance shows, and fairs that choosing a cultural activity can be overwhelming. One way to get the "in" on weekly activities is to sign up for the city government's "Cultura en la Semana" listserv. Send an email to laculturaenlasemana@buenosaires.gov.ar, requesting to be a part of the e-mail list, and you'll start getting regular updates about annual festivals, free tango shows, new exhibits at the Centro Cultural Recoleta, and more.

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Culture Shock

Don't take offense at the flattery

Audrey Bergner

11 Oct 2009

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If you’re heading to Argentina, you should know that the men are not afraid to lavish women with flattering words. If a woman is walking down the street and a man finds her attractive, he will pay her a compliment, which is called a "piropo." These compliments can range from flirtatious remarks to poetic verse. “Piropos” are considered an art form, so don’t be too shocked or offended if as you walk by a man whispers sweet nothings into your ear. Just smile back in return... it’s all in good fun!

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Must Do

Don't miss La Bomba de Tiempo

Julie Turkewitz

30 Jun 2009

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Julie Turkewitz

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If you are in Buenos Aires, absolutely do not miss La Bomba de Tiempo, an enormous weekly drum show at an outdoor cultural space called Ciudad Cultural Konex. Particularly in the summer, the show gets packed with locals and tourists looking to let loose and dance. Shows are on Mondays, admission is 15 pesos (less than $4 U.S.), and doors open at 7 p.m. I recommend arriving early, or you will have to wait in line. Check out details here: http://www.labombadetiempo.blogspot.com.

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Etiquette

Drinking mate like a local

Julie Turkewitz

30 May 2009

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Julie Turkewitz

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Mate is a hot drink that serves as Argentina’s social glue. Want to sip like a local? When the mate is passed to you, sip until you have finished all the liquid in the gourd. Then pass it back to the server. Don’t say “thanks.” Why? Saying “thank you” implies that you’re done and you don’t want another round. Just nod, smile, and pass it on.

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Food

Finding sushi burritos

Julie Turkewitz

30 May 2009

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Julie Turkewitz

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Want to eat sushi in Buenos Aires without paying a price that makes your stomach turn? If you’re not afraid of a little sushi adventure, you can find rolls for as little as 10 pesos (less than $3) in the city’s barrio chino. The rolls come wrapped in plastic, and if you’re really adventurous, you can eat them like burritos. Buenos Aires’ Chinatown, located in the middle of Belgrano, is actually full of immigrants from all over Asia, and it’s the best place to find any food you can’t find anywhere else (as well as the cheapest mangos in town!).

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Health

How to get vaccinated for free

Julie Turkewitz

28 Jun 2009

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Julie Turkewitz

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Keep in mind that if you are in Argentina and want to travel to Bolivia, you'll need to get a vaccine against yellow fever. If you don't want to shell out the 100 pesos for the vaccine -- that's almost $30 U.S. -- you can head to a free clinic at Avenida Ingeniero Huergo 690. The staff there does the vaccine without charge, Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. I showed up at 9:45 a.m. and was done by 10:30 a.m. Good luck!

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Slang

Who’s the ñoqui here?

Julie Turkewitz

31 May 2009

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Julie Turkewitz

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Want to understand the graffiti scrawled all over Buenos Aires? Keep this in mind: A “ñoqui” isn’t just a type of pasta, it’s also an insult thrown at do-nothing politicians. Argentines traditionally ate ñoquis at the end of the month – usually the 29th – when the month’s paycheck was running out and the cabinet was bare, save for a bit of pasta. These days, the tradition may still continue in some households, but “ñoqui” is now used to refer to a lazy politician – or government worker, or administrator – who made a lot of promises, didn’t do anything, and then had the gumption to show up at the end of the month for his or her paycheck.

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Nightlife

No drinking the night before an election

Julie Turkewitz

28 Jun 2009

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Julie Turkewitz

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Here's something handy (and interesting): In Argentina, it is illegal to sell alcohol the night before an election. The idea is that politicians want the electorate to head to the polls with clear heads. Technically, grocery stores, kiosks and bars stop selling in the early evening, and discoteques just don't open. Of course, compliance with the law is spotty, and you shouldn't have trouble ordering alcohol at a restaurant -- just ask your waiter to dress your drink as a soda or a smoothie.

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Being an American

You’re not the only American here

Julie Turkewitz

25 Apr 2009

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Julie Turkewitz

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Referring to yourself as an “American” in South America is tricky. Most U.S. citizens learn to identify themselves simply as “American,” with the understanding that this communicates they are from the United States. But remember that a Mexican, Chilean, Argentine – really anyone from North or South America – is also an American. While some Latin Americans freely use “americano” to specify a U.S. citizen, others think using the term in this way implies a certain arrogance. To avoid appearing socially unaware, just skip the word altogether. You can use “estadounidense” to describe yourself.

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